Contents
Types Of Hand Stitches
Backstitch
This stitch is incredibly strong and secure. The backstitch and the brick stitch are sometimes distinguished. The prick stitch is considered by some to be the finer, shorter stitch. On the upper side of the cloth, the stitches are uniform and evenly spaced. The stitches overlap somewhat on the back or bottom.
The stitch is used to mend or repair seams, in substitute for machine stitching in handmade clothes, as under stitching for delicate garments or a difficult-to-reach spot, and to manually insert a zipper.
Begin the backstitch by attaching the thread on the underside of the cloth or between the layers. Bring the needle all the way through the cloth to the right side.
Place the needle 1/16 to 1/8 inch behind the point where the thread came out of the cloth. Pass the needle through all layers of the cloth and forward twice the stitch length (about 1/8 to 1/4-inch). Return the needle to the fabric’s top or surface, drawing the thread taut. On the underside, the stitches will have a chain-like appearance.
Buttonhole Stitch
This is an extremely sturdy stitch. It’s done from right to left, with the needle’s tip towards you and the raw edge of the cloth (the edge of the fastener you’re covering) facing away. The stitch is used to sew on fasteners, complete the edge of an appliqué, cover hooks and eyes, and construct hand-worked buttonholes. Secure the thread end and bring it to the outer edge to make the buttonhole stitch.
When stitching a buttonhole, put the needle between the lips on the rear side, bringing the needle’s point to the surface about 1/8-inch below the lip.
Wrap the thread from left to right around the needle. Pull the needle through the loop, letting it slip to the edge of the lip, producing a tight knot as the thread is pulled.
Bring the needle to the surface while covering hooks and eyes. Sew a tight knot along one side of the fastener by looping the thread behind the needle. Stitches should be spaced closely and securely.
Catch Stitch
The catch stitch was stitched from one edge of the cloth to the other, forming an X-like pattern. The stitch has some elasticity or “give” due to the X-like structure, which is useful in particular situations. It’s used for hemming, tacking a facing at a seam edge, and holding interfacing pieces together, among other things. The catch stitch can be stitched across a cloth edge from edge to edge.
This stitch is also known as a flat catch stitch. 14-inch down from the hem edge, a little stitch is taken. At the hem edge of the garment, another little stitch is added. As the stitching proceeds from left to right, the needle is pointed left, forming an X-stitch pattern.
Blind Stitch
With the hem, edge rolled back about 12 inches, work a blind catch stitch. The stitch secures the rear of the hem to the garment’s backside. When finished, the stitches are not visible from either the right or wrong side. A tailor’s ham is made with the blind catch stitch. Take a very little stitch (a few threads) of the garment with the thread end securely fixed. In the backside of the hem, take the next stitch around 14 inches to the right. Moving from left to right, alternate between the hem and the garment. For most knits, this method is recommended as the hemming stitch.
The cross-stitch stitch is both ornamental and useful. The stitch gives an area some flexibility while yet providing security. It’s commonly used to fix the center back easy pleat and any dart tucks when fitting a jacket or coat lining. A sequence of 14 to 12-inch apart diagonal stitches are stitched through all layers of cloth to make a pattern of “X’s” or crosses. You can use a single or double thread.
Diagonal Basting
A lengthier variation of the pad stitch is referred to as diagonal basting in bespoke tailoring. It’s utilized to keep the interface in place against the facing. It’s possible that the stitch will be permanent or transitory. It must not show through on the right side of the fabric if it is to be permanent. The diagram below shows how altering the stitching orientation impacts the appearance of the completed stitches – chevron or parallel lines.
Featherstitch
It’s a decorative hand stitch that may be used on both the inside and exterior of a garment. The stitch may be both ornamental and practical. It’s commonly employed as an embroidery stitch when designing a lining to fix the center back easy pleat and dart/tucks, as well as to secure appliqué to the appropriate place.
On alternating sides of a particular line, pleat, or tuck region, a sequence of very few stitches is taken. The thread might be simple or ornamental, single or double. Begin by lying or concealing the thread end before beginning the featherstitch. Bring the thread to the surface in the middle or along the “specified line.”
Make a little diagonal stitch to the right of the middle, about 1/8-inch. Angle the needle to come out about 1/8 to 1/4 inch below the thread/stitch above on the centerline. Place the thread such that it crosses the centerline and is always beneath the needle. The next stitch is taken diagonally from the left of the centerline, heading toward the center line and ending there. These patterns appear again and again.
Felling
Felling is a slant stitch formation used to connect or fasten fabric edges such as the undercollar to the garment’s neck edge facing, closure seams from the right side, and attach appliqués during custom-tailoring.
Secure a single thread between layers of cloth in an unobtrusive area. Pick up a very little stitch (a few threads) in the cloth opposite the thread with the needle held diagonally to the folded edge. Insert the needle’s tip through the fold’s edge and about 14 inches to the right, taking up a few threads from the opposite side or garment piece. Pull the needle through the thread. Stitches should be closely spaced and tightly drawn. Rep the stitch pattern.
Overcast
Overcast is generally used to avoid raveling as a seam or edge treatment. It’s produced by sewing over the edge of the cloth and can be done in either way. There is just one thread used.
The thread should be secure. Move the needle forward roughly 1/4-inch, starting with the thread on the top side of the cloth edge and to the side of the needle. The needle should be inserted from the rear and brought to the correct side. A rep for the desired period of time. The thread will wrap around the area’s raw edge. Secure the thread at the end of the stitching line and hide the end of the thread.
Pad Stitch
It’s a stitch used in bespoke tailoring. Depending on the direction of each row of stitching, stitches can produce a chevron or “V”-like a pattern or be more parallel–see diagonal basting stitch. A single thread is used to complete the stitch. The pad stitch is used to provide a clothing region solidity and to permanently adhere the interfacing to the garment component.
The stitches are more controllable and solid when they are short and close together. This is especially important in the lapel area of a jacket or coat, or in the stand of a collar. Secure the thread and bring it to the fabric’s surface. Take a 1/8 to 1/4-inch stitch from top to bottom or bottom to top, pointing the needle perpendicular to the stitching direction. Pull the thread taut, but not too tight. Move the needle up or down the fabric 1/4 to 1/2 inch, depending on the control or stiffness required, then take another 1/8 to 1/4-inch stitch. Rep these stitches as necessary.
Running
It’s an even stitch that goes in and out. It’s similar to an even basting stitch, except the stitches are smaller and more lasting. Use just one thread. Easing, very fine gathering, hand darning, and extremely delicate stitching such as fine seaming and tucking are all done using the running stitch.
Bring the needle to the fabric’s surface and secure the thread. Take three or four tiny, even forward stitches, about 1/4-inch apart, with the needle inserted into the cloth. Pull the cloth taut with the needle. Repeat.
Conclusion
It’s simple and quick to pick up these vital hand sewing skills. Even better, you will remember this information for the rest of your life. And you’ll undoubtedly use them in a variety of sewing tasks. So there you have it, a beginner’s guide to hand stitching. Good luck with your sewing lessons and enjoy your newfound abilities.
